It’s true that cuisine from around the world is well represented in the Big Apple, which perhaps explains the intent behind the menu at Manhattan Room Tapas Kitchen featuring an array of foods not typically served as small plates.
The featured fare was characteristic of such varied places as Spain, Italy, England, Japan and Boston — yes, Beantown — among others.
The decor is stylish and upscale, something you might find in New York City. The dining room has a combination of banquettes and tables, an open kitchen and, even on a busy night, surprisingly good acoustics given the very tall ceilings (which are painted black, as are a few walls). The hanging orb light fixtures provide enough lighting while the sun still filters through the west-facing windows, but once it’s gone the small table lights were needed to see the bill.
As is the case with most tapas bars, plates are served as they’re ready, which means not everything arrives together. However, we didn’t experience much lag time between our several orders. Instead, the delays were reserved for our server, who seemed to forget we were there.
Everything Parker House rolls with avocado butter at Manhattan Room Tapas Kitchen
We started with Everything Parker House rolls served with avocado butter ($7). Acquainted with the real thing (in Boston), we were curious as to what they would be like here. This version proved to be dissimilar in shape along with the “Everything” topping, a blend of black and white sesame seeds, dried onion and poppy seeds. Two come to an order with a dollop of pale green avocado butter on the side and would have benefited from the addition of sea salt. The rolls were light and airy, which was the only likeness to the authentic variety.
Fish & Chips at Manhattan Room Tapas Kitchen
Fish and chips ($8) were impressively crispy, not oily, and included four substantial pieces of beer-battered cod. They were served in a bowl atop a bed of arugula with the chips, which were described as “triple cooked.” They were thick, lackluster fries without much crunch and our curiosity as to the three cooking methods was not appeased. Tradition met with creativity, though, when it came to the dipping sauces: malt vinegar, mayo and saffron aioli.
Shrimp Yakitori at Manhattan Room Tapas Kitchen
Shrimp yakitori ($9) showcased three large skewered shrimp with a slightly peppery citrus dressing (yuzu koshu) sprinkled with bonito flakes on chopped red lettuce. These were succulent and the flavors of the dressing combined an impressive balance of tangy and spicy. It wouldn’t have been wrong to order more than one.
Butternut squash and orange ravioli at Manhattan Room Tapas Kitchen.
Butternut squash is not something usually thought of during the summer, but pairing it with oranges as the filling for ravioli was an inventive way to make the dough-filled pillows not seem out of season ($9). The combo of the creamy and nutty squash with the sweet fruit was inspired. Each of the three ravioli was topped with a piece of fried sage, pine nuts and a dusting of pecorino cheese.
When you find a tapa you like, you realize what makes one appealing is also its detriment: Tapas are small plates and sometimes you want the servings to be larger.
Manhattan Room Tapas Kitchen
Small plates representing different cuisines.
Location: 1895 Democracy Point
Contact: 1-719-884-2864; manhattantapas.com
Prices: $7 to $19
Hours: 4-8:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday and Sunday; 4-9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Monday
Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi. Outdoor seating. Reservations suggested.
Favorite dishes: Shrimp yakitori and butternut squash ravioli.
Other: Gluten-free and limited vegan options available.
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